What shapes the听flavour听of sake, from delicate fruit notes to deep听savoury听umami? Writer and Japanese culture specialist Erin Niimi Longhurst guides us through the key ingredients, production techniques and styles that define this unique category.听
Sake is a Japanese alcoholic beverage made from fermented rice, with a history stretching back over two millennia. Widely considered the national drink of Japan, it plays a significant role in Japanese culture and is increasingly enjoyed around the world.听听
In this article, we explore how sake gets its听flavour, looking at how production methods,听ingredients听and ageing shape its character, as well as the different taste profiles that can help you refine your听sake听tasting skills.听
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What is sake?
In Japanese, 鈥荣补办别鈥� is a term used to describe drinks听containing听alcohol, while what is commonly referred to as 鈥荣补办别鈥� outside Japan is known as 鈥�nihonshu鈥� (lit. 鈥楯apanese alcoholic drink鈥�).
Although often described as a 鈥榬ice wine鈥�,听this is something of a misnomer, as sake is brewed from rice rather than fermented from fruit sugars, a fundamentally different production process.
It is made using polished rice, water, koji听mould听and yeast, and the interaction between these core ingredients during brewing shapes the wide range of听flavour听profiles found in sake.听
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The sake brewing process听
Sake is brewed using a technique known as multiple parallel fermentation. In wine production, a single fermentation converts fruit sugars into alcohol using yeast. With sake, rice is the base ingredient, so those sugars do not exist yet. They first need to be created.听
This is where saccharification comes in. This is the process of converting starch into sugar. In sake production, this happens at the same time as fermentation, rather than听before it.听
A key player in this process is koji, a type of听mould听(Aspergillus oryzae) that is grown on听the rice. Koji releases enzymes that break down the rice starch into sugar. At the same time, yeast converts听that sugar听into alcohol. Because both processes happen together in the same tank, sake production is often described as 鈥渕ultiple parallel fermentation鈥�.听
The first stage of production involves polishing听the rice. The outer layers, which听contain听fats and proteins, are removed to allow easier access to the starchy core. The rice is then steamed and combined with koji, water and yeast, before being left to ferment for several weeks.听
After fermentation, the听sake听is pressed,听pasteurised, filtered,听aged听and diluted, depending on the style. This entire process is overseen by the听master听sake brewer, known as the听罢艒箩颈.听
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How does sake get its听铿俛惫辞耻谤?听
Several factors influence the听flavour听of sake, including the degree of rice polishing, the choice of koji and yeast, fermentation听temperatures听and post-production processes.听
Rice polishing ratio:听Sake rice is polished to access the听shinpaku, the starchy core of the grain that is broken down by koji. The more highly milled the rice, the purer and more refined the resulting sake tends to be. Junmai听daiginjo听and听daiginjo听styles, for example, are often polished to 50% or less. Less polished rice, by contrast, can produce fuller-bodied sakes with more pronounced cereal and earthy notes.听
Yeast:听As yeast converts sugar into alcohol, it also produces esters and acids. These aromatic compounds shape the character of the听sake听and contribute to its acidity. Different yeast strains create different expressions. Ginjo sakes, for example, are often associated with aromas of apple,听banana听or melon.听
Koji:听Koji plays听a central role听in saccharification and contributes听a subtle听sweetness. At the same time, amino acids produced during fermentation add depth and听savoury听complexity, enhancing the umami and body of the sake.听
Fermentation temperature:听Fermentation temperature has a significant impact on听flavour. Lower temperatures help preserve delicate fruity and floral esters. Higher temperatures, which can be more efficient from a production perspective, tend to produce richer,听nuttier听and more听savoury听styles with听fuller听body.听
Water quality:听Water composition varies by location and can influence both听flavour听and texture. Soft water typically produces a more mellow, rounded sake. Harder water can result in a听drier, more structured听style听and can affect mouthfeel.听
Filtration,听aging听and dilution:听Filtering affects the clarity,听texture听and perceived purity of sake. Most premium styles are filtered for a smooth, refined finish, while听nigori听sakes are left cloudy, giving a creamier and more textured character.听
Ageing, known as听koshu, can deepen听colour听and develop more complex听flavours, often described as nutty or听savoury. Dilution, or听kasui, is used to adjust balance and alcohol听level, helping to bring the sake into harmony.听
The addition of alcohol:听Some styles of sake, most notably听honjozo, have a small amount of听additional听alcohol added. This can help create a smoother, more听robust听and aromatic style.听
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Sake听铿俛惫辞耻谤听pro铿乴es and styles听
Historically, sake has been assessed using the 鈥榞o-mi鈥�,听or 鈥榝ive tastes鈥�:听amami听(sweetness),听karami听(dryness or pungency),听sanmi听(acidity),听nigami听(bitterness) and听shibumi听(astringency).
Umami is also an important consideration when evaluating sake, and these elements vary depending on the style.听Umami, a听savoury听depth often associated with ingredients like mushrooms or soy, is also an important part of how sake is evaluated. The balance of these elements varies depending on the style, shaping the overall character of the sake.听
- Daiginjo:听50% polish, fruity, 铿俹ral, delicate and re铿乶ed, tropical fruits听
- Ginjo:听60% polish, fruity, 铿俹ral, delicate, notes of melon, apple听
- Honjozo:听70% polish, dry, crisp,听smooth听and balanced due to the added alcohol听
- Junmai:听70% polish, umami, earthy, mushroom, full body听
Understanding these听flavour听profiles is key to appreciating sake. It helps you听recognise听what you are tasting and why it tastes that way. It also guides how sake is best served, from temperature to food pairing, so that its character is enhanced rather than masked.听
Kanpai!听
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Want to learn more about sake? Discover more with a 黑料吃瓜网 Award in Sake.
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About the author:
Erin Niimi Longhurst is a听British-Japanese听author based in London. Her听previous听titles include听Japonisme听(2018),听Omoiyari听(2020) and听The Joy of Wintering听(2024). Her current book,听Meet Your Matcha, is out now and co-authored with food writer Jassy Davis.听
She works as a freelance writer听specialising听in Japanese culture and lifestyle and is a frequent contributor to听Time Out London. Her work has also been featured in publications including听Vogue,听The Guardian,听BBC Travel,听Elle,听Stylist听and more.听
